The details of the men's tailored jacket

Each men's jacket has its own details and characteristics, which it is good to know and be able to recognise, to appreciate its quality and peculiarities in order to be able to choose the jacket that best suits your needs. After talking about the most popular jacket models , let's now focus on the details and characteristics of the men's jacket:

REVER or LAP

There are three main models of lapels, which regardless of the width of the models and the presence or absence of stitching, represent one of the most important distinctive elements of the men's tailored jacket:

• Classic or notched lapel : versatile and discreet, it is typical of single-breasted tailored jackets and office suits. It represents the most traditional and widespread type of lapel, characterized by the presence of cran (the seam that separates the collar from the lapel) which forms a cut on the lapel slightly lower than the right angle, with the tips pointing towards the outside of the chest.

• Peak lapel : important and eye-catching, it is typical of the double-breasted tailored jacket and formal suits such as tuxedos, morning coats and tails. The lapel is characterized by a very narrow cran, with the tips pointing upwards to emphasize the width of the shoulders and chest, making the figure slimmer.

• Shawl lapel : harmonious and rounded, it is typical of formal jackets and tuxedos, and represents the best choice for important events and celebrations. The lapel is characterized by the absence of the cran and is made up of a single element without cuts that starts at the neck and ends below the chest.

BACK SLITS

The back vents on men's jackets play a fundamental role in the fit and aesthetics of the jacket, also influencing its comfort. The vents are located in the lower part of the back of the jacket and are of three types:

• Central vent : this is the most formal vent generally used in classic and formal jackets. It represents a good compromise in terms of comfort but is unsightly when carrying out ordinary movements such as putting your hands in your pockets.

• Side slits : it is the most used slit because in addition to providing comfort and wearability to every body type, it always maintains an aesthetic cleanliness even in the most energetic movements.

• Without vent : the absence of vent, even if it is aesthetically clean with a static figure, is less and less used because it limits the movements and comfort of the jacket, resulting in an unsightly appearance with a moving figure.

POCKETS
The external pockets of the men's jacket represent an element that significantly influences the design of a jacket. It is advisable not to unstitch the stitching that closes the external pockets so as not to ruin the aesthetics of the jacket, using the internal pockets to store personal objects.

• Welt pockets : present on tailored jackets and trousers, they are recessed, have a reinforced edge and are intended to contain handkerchiefs and flat or not too bulky objects. It represents a sober and refined detail and is used for formal and elegant dresses.

• Patch pockets : this is a pocket applied externally via a visible stitching, it makes the jacket informal and sporty and is used for casual style jackets and blazers. This type of pocket is generally unstitched, therefore ready for use, but it is always better not to weigh it down with bulky objects.

• Welt pockets with flap : Flap pockets are pockets with two welts, in which a strip of fabric with rounded lines called a flap is embedded. This type of pocket allows a "double chance" as the flaps can be hidden inside the piping, so as to make the jacket formal or informal depending on the occasion.

• Pocket : this pocket is positioned on the chest on the left side and can be enriched with one clutch bag according to personal tastes. The pocket is generally of two types: welt and patch. The welt pocket is the most classic and formal and is integrated into the external fabric of the jacket, emphasized by an applied fabric strip called pistagna . The patch pocket is more casual and sporty and consists of a pocket applied to the outside of the jacket using visible stitching.

• Ticket pocket : it is the pocket positioned on the side, above the right pocket, and is asymmetrical as it does not have its "twin" on the left side. As can be understood from the name, it was created to store travel tickets and today, while maintaining its original functionality, it represents a stylistic detail, generally in a welt or welt version with flap.

INTERIOR

The interior and construction of a jacket can vary based on seasonality and stylistic or use purposes, which is why it is good to delve deeper into the various terms that are increasingly often associated with the term jacket:

• Built jacket : represents the most formal type of jacket and is more "rigid" as inside there are accessories that give shape and compactness to the jacket, in order to avoid unsightly folds in the fabric and grace the lines of the body. The shoulder is the key element of the constructed jacket, in fact it is structured through an internal shoulder pad made of several layers, with the function of padding and raising the shoulder to make it rigid and regular. In some cases the part that goes from the shoulder to the front pockets called " quarter " or " forward " is also stiffened with horse hair which, inserted during the manufacturing phase, strengthens the section giving it an ironed effect.

• Deconstructed or destructured jacket : it is a type of jacket without structure, padding and interlining. Unlike the constructed jacket, the deconstructed jacket is softer, without rigid constructions, so as to favor freedom of movement and lightness even when the jacket is worn. In almost all cases the deconstructed jacket is presented without an internal lining, which, combined with the absence of shoulder straps and internal supports on the front quarters, makes the jacket "empty", so as to adapt softly and fluidly to the body of the person wearing it. wears.

• Lined jacket : this type of men's jacket has as its main feature the presence of a lining that covers all the internal seams of the jacket. The lining, especially if made of natural fiber such as cupro, makes the jacket antistatic and breathable, and facilitates body movements thanks to the lack of internal friction, making the garment convenient and comfortable even if worn for many hours a day. Contrary to what one might think, the lined jacket is cheaper than the unlined one since the attention to be paid to the details of the internal seams is much less.

• Unlined jacket : this type of men's jacket has as its main feature the absence of an internal lining and consequently the internal constructions and stitching remain visible. Each seam must be finished in detail, the accessories used must be of high quality with colors in harmony with the fabric of the jacket, and the cleanliness of the workmanship must be impeccable. These increased processes affect the final cost, making the unlined jacket more expensive than the one with lining.

• Semi-lined jacket : it is a jacket that inside has all the characteristics of the unlined jacket but has a lining only at the shoulder, in order to facilitate the fluidity of movements and the comfort of the fit.